Never content to rest on past success, locations in Salt Lake City and outside Atlanta opened amidst a global pandemic, Carson Kitchen Las Vegas launched Sunday Brunch on the final weekend of September – and damn is it delicious.
Still DTLV’s best Restaurant after six...years, a team of talented women and men currently led by Chef Scott Simon cooking for 50% capacity, it is donning masks that guests are welcomed beginning at 11:00am, the waning days of Matthew Harwell’s tenure as General Manager predictably featuring faultless service with the utmost attention to guest safety.
The first time offering Brunch, something of a surprise as founder Kerry Simon once made his name with boozy midday services at Hard Rock and The Palms, it is from the mind of Cory Harwell that nine new items are offered in addition to all Carson Kitchen’s classics and seasonal innovations.
Offering socially distanced seating in the shade outside, a six-top beneath two umbrellas still reaching 90ᵒF with the sun directly overhead, it was alongside Iced Tea and paired Cocktails that dining began shortly after arrival, “The Dude Abides” riffing Jeffrey Lebowski’s famous White Russian while “Bubbles Is My Dancin’ Name” is a Fruit-forward easy-sipper that pairs beautifully to texturally-complex Oatmeal and Mascarpone-stuffed Sopaipilla French Toast each balancing spice with Sugar.
Filled to current-capacity by noon, a second round of Food and Beverage arriving after share plates were refreshed, two types of Bloody Mary see bartenders lean heavily on the kitchen for inspiration, Cory’s famous Bacon Jam turning up in a more classic version while Celery Salt lines the rim of “Beets By CK” featuring plenty of earthy notes bolstered by Gin.
Never passing on Crispy Chicken Skins, as delicious today as they have been twenty-times prior, new plates focused on Eggs include ubiquitous Avocado Toast and a Goat Cheese Frittata for those seeking something light, though more indulgent guests will likely gravitate to Spam atop Fried Green Tomatoes with Poached Eggs and Hollandaise or Shrimp and Grits that take the Southern classic to new heights via Mint, Fish Sauce and Chiles.
Happy to see Kerry’s iconic Edamame back on the menu, a large bowl circling once before settling in front of its biggest fan, both “Water Malone” and “Tangled Up In Blue” are precisely the sort of drink one might find themselves ordering seconds (or thirds) of before the alcohol adds up, which is pretty much the idea when sharing decadent Oxtail Hash or a Pork Belly Sandwich that eats less weighty than expected thanks to a soft Bun and herbaceous Spread.
Certainly not forgetting “Chicken & Waffle,” Carson Kitchen’s “Secret Sunday” blend coating the Bird atop Waffles incorporating “shhhh, it’s a secret” Mac ‘n Cheese, there is nothing secret about this writer’s love of Cory’s Bourbon Fudge Brownie with Brown Butter Bacon Ice Cream, though the seasonal “Beery” Crumble with Chela Cream, Streusel and Lemon Zest is lighter and nearly as delectable.More