All Articles 7 things to know before visiting Reykjavik, according to locals

7 things to know before visiting Reykjavik, according to locals

One hint: Never skip the ice cream.

Erika Owen
By Erika Owen19 Jul 2024 6 minutes read
Two colorful buildings in Laugavegur.
Two buildings in Laugavegur.

Most people who visit Iceland spend a couple of days in Reykjavik before taking off on a road trip around the country—but missing out on the capital is a big mistake. I say this as someone who has been here more than a dozen times and always finds something new to love every time I visit.

Since my first trip in 2013, I’ve come to understand—and embrace—the local pool culture, which is equally beneficial for social and wellness reasons. (More on that below.)

But perhaps the most valuable lesson I’ve picked up is that it’s always a good idea to strike up a conversation with locals, who I always find to be incredibly friendly and willing to chat. At worst, I’ve been rewarded with a list of must-try restaurants or shops. At best, I’ve made a new friend.

I recently spoke to two locals who have become good friends: Eyglo Margret Larusdottir (the designer behind the clothing line Eyglo) and Valdi Valdimarsson (an event planner at Pink Iceland). Here, they reveal their top tips for navigating Reykjavik—whether it’s your first visit or your 14th.

1. Come for the waterfalls and glaciers, stay for the cocktail bars.

A ruby-red cocktail
A bright green cocktail
A rose-colored cocktail
The cocktails at Vedur and Héðinn.

Happy hour is a relatively new concept in Iceland—and it's great news not only because it's fun but because wine and cocktails can be expensive here. A pre-dinner drink is now my go-to way to experience the city’s best bartenders. A few top picks include Vedur (order the honey-infused Bee’s Knees), Héðinn (a hotel lobby bar with a fantastic negroni), or my new favorite, Jungle. The menu at Jungle is super inventive, but I always opt for the spicy Pepe, made with pisco, bell pepper, chili, and orange.

A few things to keep in mind: Bars don’t clear out once the happy hour deals are over, especially Thursday through Sunday. So after dinner, it’s fun to head back out. (Most bars close at around 2 a.m., even later on weekend nights.) Because Reykjavik is so walkable, it’s not uncommon to get swept up in a local group of bar crawlers.

Tip: Reykjavik is a city full of stylish people who, says Larusdottir, like to dress up—which means wearing hiking boots, athletic wear, or waterproof outer layers is a sure-fire way to stand out as a tourist. Go ahead and pack that seemingly impractical outfit so you can blend in during a night on the town.

Travelers say: “Our last night in Reykjavik, my husband and I had a recommendation from one or tour guides that [Jungle] was one of his favorites so we went to check it out. The bar is just what you would except, a jungle atmosphere and very cool cocktails. The bartender was so friendly and when I asked about the rhubarb liquor, I not only got a taste of this unique liquor but a taste of the locally grown rhubarb used to make the liquor. Just a great time, great cocktails and great service”—@mdjoseph2976

2. See nature and (fingers crossed) the Northern Lights, right within the city limits.

When the aurora makes an appearance—which usually happens from October through March—you can see it from most places in the city (if there aren’t any clouds). For a more peaceful experience, Valdimarsson recommends heading to Grótta Lighthouse, a quick 10-minute drive or a short bus ride away on the nearby coastline. Nearby, Ráðagerð is a hidden gem of a restaurant with ocean views and an Italian-inspired menu (try the meatballs).

Tip: Uber is not used in Reykjavik, but you can call a taxi. You can also walk from the city center to Grótta Lighthouse, but it’ll take about an hour.

See the Northern Lights

Aurora borealis viewing experiences

3. Take a dip in a local pool.

Local bathers crowding the pool at Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach.
The scene at Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach.

While I always suggest booking a visit to the Blue Lagoon or Sky Lagoon, that’s not the way locals experience their bath houses. True, none of the 17 pools around town stock luxurious body scrubs or offer private changing rooms, but you will get a more authentic (and less expensive) version of Iceland's pool culture.

To Icelanders, time spent in the pools—which range from cold baths to steamy hot tubs—is a way to catch up with friends and neighbors before or after work and on weekends. (Most people have one or two favorites near work or home.) Plus, the wellness benefits are real: For starters, alternating between water temps is great for reducing stress. A nice long soak will also help unclog your pores, relieve muscle tension, and increase circulation. I’ve also found that I sleep like a baby after a session.

Just remember: Before entering the water, you have to rinse off completely unclothed before putting on your swimsuit. (Fellow bathers take this very seriously.)

Where to go: Don’t miss Sundhöllin, which is designed by Icelandic architect Guðjón Samúelsson. On the city’s southern coast, the Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach pool overlooks the sand—which means you can soak in the water then take a dip in the ocean.

Travelers say: “I would recommend [the Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach pool] for families, as well as anyone else, as a fun and free experience on a reasonably good weather day.”—@Laura W

4. Check out this residential neighborhood.

Vesturbær is the city’s main residential area, and a great off-the-beaten-path place to spend an afternoon, since you won’t see many tourists. Sidewalks are filled with residents heading to yoga class, grabbing a pastry with a stroller in tow, or taking a break from campus (the University of Iceland isn’t far).

Where to go: Here’s how to recreate Valdimarsson’s ideal day: Have a soak in the Vesturbær swimming pool before grabbing a Swiss mocha and some toast with jam at the cafe Kaffihus Vesturbæjar. Cap it all off with a warm cinnamon bun from Braud & Co, a bakery next door.

Travelers say: “We went [to the the Vesturbær swimming pool] a few times during our week in Reykjavik. There are 2 large, 1 medium and a few smaller geothermal pools at varying temps. So nice to be in the warm water on a cold day. It's clean, well organized, easy to find and park. It's a wonderful place to visit.”—@jemx1

5. Eat ice cream (even if it's snowing outside).

Ice cream in a cone.
Ice cream in a cup made to look like a panda.
The ice cream at Valdis and Omnom Chocolate.

According to Valdimarsson, there’s no wrong time to eat ice cream—which explains why you’ll see scoop shops in every neighborhood. “We don’t care if there’s a snowstorm outside or if it’s a warm day,” he says. A visit to an ice cream store is also a popular activity for Icelandic family outings.

My personal pick is Omnom, near the Grandi Harbour neighborhood. Technically a chocolate shop (grab a bar of Black n’ Burnt Barley as a souvenir), it also serves up the most extravagant sundaes. My go-to order at Omnom is the the Lakkrís Wolf Liquorice, made with vanilla soft serve or licorice ice cream and topped with chocolate sauce, raspberry-licorice-chocolate cookie crumble, and a piece of milk chocolate. Locals consider Omnom a fancy spot; for a more low-key experience head to Valdis.

What to order: Regardless of where you go, try bragðarefur, best described as a vanilla milkshake blended with whatever candy you choose; most locals opt for licorice.

Travelers say: “[Omnom] sells delicious chocolates. But we went there for the ice cream. Their location is a bit out of the way, and can get very busy at times. The first time we went, it was packed, so we took a stroll to view the harbour then came back and most of the crowd had left. The ice cream is delicious! And it is served in unusual and creative combos. You get to pick your toppings, so you are sure to enjoy.”—@AK8397

6. Sample the city’s best fish stew.

Fermented shark, puffin, and whale steak are three of the more touristy dishes people talk about after visiting Iceland. But residents don’t eat those on a regular basis. What's on their regular dinner rotation? That would be plokkfiskur, or fish stew, which makes use of the island’s bounty. Plokkfiskur is a traditional dish of mashed fish, potatoes, and bechamel, a stick-to-your-bones meal that tastes even better after a hike.

Where to go: Book a table at ROK (located close to the Hallgrimskirkja cathedral) or Kaffivagninn (the city’s oldest restaurant).

Iceland 101

Signature sightseeing, iconic experiences

7. Don’t sleep on breakfast.

Eating out for breakfast is considered a treat for locals, and cafés reflect that with their extra cozy interiors and baked goods worthy of a special occasion. Some of the top breakfast spots include Grái Kötturinn (a favorite hangout for writers living in Reykjavik) and Deig (for doughnuts in flavors like crème brûlée).

Tip: If you can’t get an early check-in at your hotel after a red-eye flight, a leisurely breakfast is the best way to kick off your first day in town.

Travelers say: “I went to [Deig] on the last day in Reykjavik. I would have gained 10 pounds if I found it the first day. The donuts and bagels here are great. Best in town for sure. I got the Jam Donut (powdered sugar and berry jam) and the Creme Brulee Donut (cream filled with a crunchy sugared top that they fire on the spot). I also got the Churchill bagel and a sesame bagel. Both were very good. Service is fast and efficient despite lines. Highly recommend.”—@Niki G

Erika Owen
Erika Owen is a Brooklyn-based writer and self-described Iceland enthusiast. She is also the author of The Art of Flaneuring: How to Wander with Intention and Discover a Better Life, Lawbreaking Ladies: 50 Tales of Daring, Defiant, and Dangerous Women from History, and Fodor's Essential Iceland.